Lake Como, Winter Wonder

So our annual birthday weekend away to Malta by air actually turned into a weekend in Lake Como by car (from Pisa) instead due to a sick dog.  We had planned a lovely weekend with some friends from over the water in California, but sadly, it was not to be.

Don’t worry the lake air and warm skies did the dog the world of good and she’s made a speedy recovery.  This isn’t her happy face!

The toll charges from Pisa to Milan at €28 were a lot more expensive than the €16 flight to Malta.  But actually, the cost of holidaying there in the winter seems to be less than the Summer, probably because establishments set their pricing for tourists versus for locals.

The four hour drive above the spooky clouds and gloomy skies with extra low visibility didn’t prevent us from having an almost argument free road trip. Unusual for us.  We can even manage a row on a 5 minute drive to the local petrol station normally.

So far we have always had sunny Dec 3 adventures in Europe, to Lisbon., Venice and actually also the UK. We booked a last minute 4 night trip at the Hilton Como hotel. As we often do, this was a points redemption trip. We couldn’t afford it any other way either in the height of Summer or even the quieter winter months.  The hotel doesn’t look great from the outside but that’s because  it’s front building housed a silk factory until the early-80s and they have paid homage to this in their renovations. Once inside there’s a gorgeous glass lounge which is very cosy in the winter, and provided outside seating during the summer.

We got an upgrade to a duplex, loft suite with a beautiful glass roof. Luckily with blackout blinds for the evenings. It also had a bath, something I always crave in the winter and after giving it a good clean out I definitely made the most of it.

There was a sofa bed in the lounge area downstairs where I was tempted to put the dog, as she wasn’t actually invited on this romantic birthday weekend away and so needs to be seen and not heard but the OH (other half) was having none of it. Where he goes, she goes.  

The first night and all of the next day were solid, heavy rain!!   Dog doesn’t go out in the rain and neither do we, so we ventured up to the rooftop terrace bar and restaurant, Terrazza 241 for dinner. What a lovely place this is, I’d highly recommend a visit if you’re not staying at the Hilton, it’s about 10/15 minute walk from the centre of Como.

In the summer months there is a beautiful pool here but sadly due to the rain I didn’t even get outside to photograph it.  Though we were told it was heated if we wanted to swim!! 

Dinner was good. I had the carbonara he had the tortellini ragù. Both were luke warm. I was told it was because mine had cream in it!!!! I hope that was lost in translation because as any proper Italian knows, one does not use cream to make Carbonara. Both dishes went back to the kitchen and came back slightly warmer. Credit to them, when we went back the next night for aperitivi we overheard them tell someone else who ordered the carbonara that it doesn’t come out hot, as the cold eggs and parmesan are added to the cooked pasta. Phew! 

Our first day trip once the rain had subsided was to Bellagio. We took the drive thinking we’d make the most of the quiet roads. Well how wrong we were.  Goodness knows what they are like in the height of summer because there was traffic most of the way.  It was a very moody and misty day and we couldn’t really see the river beside us, only a huge expanse of cloud and fog.

There’s no option to go a different way when you’re driving round a lake and if there’s traffic all the Italians get out the car and make lots of hand gestures to try and work out what’s going on.

I’d actually recommend leaving the car where you are staying and get down to the dock early to book your ferry tickets. Another tip is when you get off the ferry, go and get your return tickets so you know what time they leave and are booked on it, otherwise you could get stuck.  

After a little wander round Bellagio, a spot of lunch in a lovely little restaurant which was part of a hotel called Seta and then a cup of tea and cake in the quaint tea rooms (with bar), we made our way back round the lake through scenery which was like that of a Disney film set , and set the satellite navigation to take us to George Clooney’s villa for a cheeky Prosecco before dinner.

Sadly he wasn’t it, he was actually in London for a film premiere!  But we did notice a house further down the road was for sale.  Can you imagine having GC on speed dial or on the neighbourhood watch WhatsApp group!  

We also tried to pop into the famous Villa D’este for more tea but got halted at the front gate before we could even park the car.  If you what to visit if you’re not lucky enough to stay there; book a table for a drink or tea or something else.  The views from there are stunning!!   

Instead we parked the car in the nearby village of Cernobbio. With its quaint little shopping street and another lovely tea room we had a deliciously thick and rich hot chocolate and cream cake before heading back to the hotel spa for a well earned massage. After two big house moves in the space of 5 weeks and a tough summer, we really needed the de-stress.  If you’re visiting in Winter, don’t forget your swimwear if you want to fully enjoy the spa. We did!!! 

Birthday lunch next day by the lake in a lovely restaurant called. Plateau.  The sun was shining, we had some lovely cocktails and then headed back to the hotel for a cocktail experience and wonderful aperitivi (pre-dinner snacks) back on the rooftop bar.  These were, however, our dinner after our long and very fulfilling lunch by the lake!

Other restaurants by the lake to recommend would be Una Finestra Sul Lago, Crotto dei Platani and Canottieri Lario.

I would highly recommend Lake Como for a winter or Summer destination. Both seasons have their pluses and minuses and if you fancy making it a really special occasion and  getting a sea plane in and out there’s always that option too!  Happy Birthday to my lovely husband!

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